Our edimental wildflower seed mix is designed to bring both biodiversity of flavour into the garden. This blend of native wildflowers combines edible leaves, blossoms, and herbs which are pollinator-friendly to create a vibrant planting scheme that’s as useful in the kitchen as it is in the border.
Why grow edible wildflowers? Species like salad burnet, sorrel, and wild white clover can be picked fresh for salads and garnishes, while borage and musk mallow add colour and flavour to summer dishes. At the same time, flowers such as oxeye daisy, selfheal, and field scabious provide long-lasting nectar and habitat for bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. Sowing this mix is a simple way to enjoy a more resilient, wildlife-friendly garden while discovering new edible plants with deep cultural and culinary roots. Perfect for gardeners, allotment holders, and anyone keen to blend ornamental and edible planting in a sustainable, natural way.
Contents may change with each new harvest and depending on availability. Suitable for most soil types, do not add compost or fertiliser when sowing.
How do I know if a wildflower is edible? The safest way to know if a wildflower is edible is to research and identify each species before you harvest it. Many native wildflowers, such as yarrow, borage, and salad burnet, are well-documented as edible, but others can be toxic if eaten and not all edible wildflowers are edible in their entrity. Always use a trusted field guide or reputable source to confirm identification, and never rely on appearance alone. If you’re unsure, don’t eat it. Growing from a seed mix that’s specifically designed to include edible wildflowers is a reliable way to ensure you’re planting safe, recognised species.
Where should I plant edible wildflowers in my garden? Edible wildflowers can be planted in a variety of spots, depending on the space you have and how you’d like to use them. Sunny borders and open beds are ideal, but herb gardens and kitchen gardens, where plants like borage, salad burnet, and common sorrel will thrive, can offer easy access for harvesting. You can also scatter seed into meadow areas, allow them to mingle with ornamental perennials, or grow smaller species in containers on a patio or balcony. The key is to choose a sunny, well-drained location and avoid heavily shaded or waterlogged areas. Planting in a few different places will give you a mix of flowers to enjoy, harvest, and share with pollinators.
Sowing rate: We recommend sowing our edimental wildflower seed mix at a rate of 2 grams per square metre. For more densely populated growth, this can be increased to 4 grams per square metre. To encourage even distribution when scattering, wildflower seeds can be mixed with dry sand, sawdust, or flour at a weight ratio of 1:4 (seed to spreader).
When to sow wildflower seeds: Ideally sown in autumn, however, for germination in the spring or early summe,r they can be sown when the ground temperature is above 12 degrees and the conditions are warm and wet. Ensure that the seeds have good soil contact by pressing them lightly into the earth. Do not cover with soil. Take a look at these tips for successful wildflower seed germination.
A diverse mix of 19 species, including:
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Wild white clover (Trifolium repens) – Nitrogen fixer
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Bird’s-foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) – Supports pollinators & soil life
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Common knapweed (Centaurea nigra) – Deep-rooted perennial for structure
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Viper’s bugloss (Echium vulgare) – Bee magnet and taproot developer
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Selfheal (Prunella vulgaris) – Ground cover and pollinator support
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Sainfoin (Onobrychis viciifolia) – Legume for nitrogen fixation
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Red clover (Trifolium pratense) – Soil improver and forage plant
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Black medick (Medicago lupulina) – Quick-growing nitrogen fixer
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Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) – Enhances microbial diversity
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Wild carrot (Daucus carota) – Deep taproots break compacted soil
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Corn chamomile (Anthemis arvensis) – Lightly fragrant and pollinator-friendly
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Ribwort plantain (Plantago lanceolata) – Taprooted and beneficial to insects
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Yellow rattle (Rhinanthus minor) – Reduces grass dominance
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Greater knapweed (Centaurea scabiosa) – Pollinator powerhouse
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Kidney vetch (Anthyllis vulneraria) – Soil-binding legume
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Tufted vetch (Vicia sativa) – Fast-growing nitrogen fixer
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Wild teasel (Dipsacus fullonum) – Architectural and bird-friendly
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Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) – Herbal plant with deep roots
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Chicory (Cichorium intybus) – Soil-penetrating taproot and nectar source
Ground Preparation: Creating the Right Conditions for Soil Boosting Wildflowers to Thrive
Healthy soil starts with thoughtful groundwork. Our Soil Health Wildflower Mix is best sown onto low-fertility soil that’s free from thick grass and perennial weeds. These species thrive when they’re not outcompeted, so preparing your site well is essential.
Remove grass: Grass can quickly outcompete young wildflowers. In gardens, strip turf and roots from the surface. In larger areas where the grass is dominant sow yellow rattle the autumn before you plan to sow this mix—it’s a hemi-parasitic plant that naturally reduces grass dominance and creates space for other species.
Weed control: Remove persistent weeds either by repeated hoeing, cultivation, or hand-pulling. Pay special attention to docks, nettles, and thistles.
Soil preparation: Lightly dig or rotavate the area to expose soil. Then rake the surface to create a fine, crumbly texture (known as a ‘tilth’)—ideal for seed-to-soil contact.
Firm the soil: Tread or roll the area to create a level, firm seedbed. Wait a week, then pull up any new weed growth before sowing.
Sowing: When and How to Sow the Soil Health Mi
The best time to sow is autumn (August to October) or spring (March to May) when the soil is moist and temperatures are rising. You can also sow during summer with regular watering, ideally using collected rainwater.
How to sow:
- Even coverage: Mark off the area you plan to sow into sections and split the seed accordingly. Mix each portion of seed with a few handfuls of soil and then scatter evenly across the area.
- Surface sowing only: Scatter the seed mix on top—do not cover with soil. Many of these seeds need light to germinate.
- Press, don’t bury: Lightly press seeds into the soil by walking over the area or using a roller to ensure firm contact with the soil.
First-Year Management: Establishing Your Ecosystem
This mix is rich in perennial wildflowers and legumes—plants that develop deep roots, fix nitrogen, and build soil health over time. You may not see many flowers in the first year, but your soil is already improving below the surface.
In year one, expect some “weeds” from the existing seed bank to emerge. These often help shelter your seedlings and create early insect habitats. Hand-pull any dominant species if needed, but don’t over-manage.
Key tips:
- Avoid mowing too early—especially if yellow rattle is present.
- In late summer, cut back to 50mm and remove cuttings to prevent enriching the soil with too much organic matter.
- Hand pull invasive or persistent weeds to prevent crowding.
Long-Term Care: Supporting Soil and Species
From year two onward, your planting will establish more fully—deep-rooted herbs will improve drainage and structure, legumes will enhance fertility, and a diversity of blooms will support pollinators and beneficial insects.
Annual management tips:
- Summer cut (July–August): Allow flowers to bloom fully, then cut to 50mm.
- Seed drop: Leave cuttings in place for a week to allow seeds to disperse naturally.
- Cutting rotation: Move cuttings to lower-density areas to spread diversity.
- Autumn/winter management: Light mowing or grazing helps maintain balance and prevents woody growth.
If you want to enrich or extend the mix, autumn is the best time to overseed. After cutting, scarify patches of soil and broadcast fresh seed, then tread or roll in.
Establishing a wildflower meadow for soil health is a long-term investment in your land, your garden, and the wider ecosystem. With patience and care, this mix will reward you with a living landscape—root-deep in purpose and rich in life.
